NEPAL

Jumbesi - Thubten Choling

After three days of walk, we arrived at a village called Jumbesi. We had the incredible luck to arrive the day of the begining of the Buddha Purnima, the festivities celebrating the anniversary of the Buddha Shakyamuni, which logically, happen only once a year, and following the obscure Tibetan lunar calendar. Jumbesi is an elegant small village in between green mountains, and it's an interesting halt to do, given all the monastaries that surround it. Looking closely at the well maintained and attractive aspect of the place, it probably receives a lot of outsiders.



When we'd finished exploring the little village, we joined the procession of people who came out of the temple, holding portraits of the Buddha. After a short walk through the hamlet, we ended up at the local monastery, where they left the effigies, and where the population gathered inside. They offered us tea and cookies, and Yves who stayed there longer than me was offered lunch, me, I went out to take a look at the surroundings. Later on, we met again, and decided to go to another monastery, named Thubten Choling which lays further, and is surrounded by an entire village of Buddhist students, who live there to graduate in Tibetan Buddhist philosophy.

Jumbesi - Buda Purnima

We were only three days from Jiri, but Yves didn't want to continue, he was arguing that he had enough, that he had walked more than a week, with the so-called guide paying drinks to everybody, he wanted to go back. To me, it meant to go on with other travellers or to come back with him. The initial idea of the trek that we'd agreed between ourselves, was not to get to Mount Everest but to get the closest possible to have the best possible view of the so named black pyramide. But from Jumbesi, we had no view at all, at least of the Everest. Yves was tired and didn't want to go on.



There was a group of Danish goddesses in our inn, with guides, porters, and gear, a real expedition, in which were only missing the litters, and slaves who would carry them up the mountains.I didn't feel like joining the group, and I was improvising for quite a while, that is travelling with no route, no map, following tides and winds, I decided to go back with him. The period allowed by my visa was also running short. Even though, three days one way added to three days the other, plus the day off, that maked one week in the Nepalese Solo Khumbu. That was enough to taste the local delicacies and other dishes, I would have continued of free will. In an other incarnation probably.



On the way, we've met two Frenchmen who were coming back from the Everest base camp, they were in a terrible state. They told me that Garcia, the Portuguese alpinist who already had done one climb to the summit of the mountain, was in the region for a second atempt. Later, I came to know that the climbing had been successful, we almost met. Garcia had lost one of his companion during the first ascencion. A citizen of Belgian nationality.



I couldn't stop myself from staring at my fellow mate who was doing the trek with me, also of Belgian nationality. What a weird coindidence... Nothing happened to us. We arrived at Jiri, and went on to Katmandhu. We had got a discount from a taxidriver who had brought another alpinism goddess and his guide. Some people are really ready to pay any price to live extraordinary adventures, and agencies who feed that hunger. Well ... We'd chosen the version without guides and travel agencies. It also has its price, but much more freedom of choice and of decision.



I saw a green lizard one meter and a half long cross the road, it almost caused an accident. We had left the highest mountains, and its snow peaks, and went back to the jungle, lowest in altitude, of Katmandhu's regions. The landscapes are always mind-blowing, whatever the altitude.



As the events came to prove it in 2007, 2008, the several regions that I crossed were full of communist graffities, all throughout the country, mainly villages walls painted with communist icons. That was intriguing me at the time, but I came to understand it better when the Maoist made the world news talk about them. As it seems they've abandoned the government with which they'd formed a coalition, not being able bring down the absolute monarchy which reigns for several centuries in Nepal.I don't think that stability will come back so soon to the highest country of the world, both factions are guilty of abuses and crimes that will not resolve, in any possible way the extreme poverty that rules Nepal.

Solo Khumbu - Thado Khola

NEPAL

mali

Once in Katmandu, the initial idea was to get into Tibet through the unique border between Nepal and China. After a long and intensive search, it came up that the border was closed to individual travellers, due to political problems, that was the official version. More probably, because of problems caused by former travellers, who interfered with the Chinese administration policies, of the occupied region. Because of some, others carry the consequences.

the road after Jiri

These are mechanisms that aim to make tourists or travellers form groups of four people, at least, which will be accepted by the Chinese authorities, obviously for being easier to control than individuals. To these groups a guide, a Land Rover, are attributed by the travel agents, and of course at a price that will beat all records. The guide will be in charge to give not to much freedom of movement, in order to let no one interfere with the affairs considered internal by Beijing. I tried to stick to a group of Americans , who were at the Chinese embassy, but the Americans were not in the mood.

sete

So I forgot the Tibetan hypothesis, for being impracticable, and decided to take a closer look at the snow mountains. From the sparse information I had with me, the best option and the closer that I could get was called Jiri. Jiri was the starting point for Everest expeditions, before the airport at Namche Bazaar was built.



From Jiri, you can get a straight walk of 20 or more days to the fifth base camp of mount Everest, or put in other word the foot of the mountain. Hillary, the first to get to the top of the Everest, came out of Katmandhu, I don't have the exact figures but it must have taken more than a month walking. Nowadays, the Namche Bazaar airport, located near the mountain, shortens the initial trail, and offers an aerial base to the expeditions to the highest peak of the world.



In Jiri, I've met Yves, a traveller of Belgian nationality, who looked a bit lost at the time. He told me that he started the above mentioned trail with a Nepali guide, and that he had asked him his payment in advance. It happened that after a week of walking, the fellow had spent all his money in drinks, paying rounds to friends he 'd found at the different stages.

kenja

He had to come back because Yves didn't want to pay for more. It was during these desperate times that I've found him.
After a conversation, we decided to hit the road without any guide. We left part of the weight from our backpacks at the lodge, and followed the same trail he had first taken.

lamajura (3500)

The first day is the most difficult, you can consider it the warming period. I remember seeing Yves waiting for me at the top of the way, at our first stop in Deurali, the pass that leads to the other region, to Bandar.



The walk, the trekking can be compared to a job, you wake up, and at 8 o'clock you start to walk, that is until 17, 18h when you feel like, and after deciding democratically. Anyway, I only was left behind during the first day, after that he started to feel the drinks and the cigarettes at Brussels Grand Place. Why should I excuse myself?

deurali

We stayed at Deurali during the first night, and the following day we went down towards Bandar. I had in mind the 3500m of Lamajura, a bit further ahead, but when we got there, it was a mountain pass on a flat extension of some kilometres, the place was covered by fog, or better we had our heads in the clouds.



Willing to compensate the loss of landscape and the humidity of the event, we've chosen a cosy place with big cushions and carpets, in order to taste the local stews.
We walked like that during three days, enjoying the local delicacies, until Jumbesi, where we decided to take a day off.



These are the mani stones, engraved with prayers, inscriptions and sketches, and other religious ornaments. They are found all through the way, and should be circunambulated from the left side. These are found in Deurali.









After some "exploring" of the surroundings, I've found a field covered with prayer flags, you can find them in all regions dedicated to Tibetan Buddhism. The wind should carry the writings on the flags and take the prayers to every place.



This is a view I got, looking back at the way we'd done so far. It should be in Jiri's direction.

bandar

In bandar, we've found a empty small temple, colourful and full of religious paintings. Demchog, protectors and other irate manisfestations of the deities. Well, Demchog is older than Tibetan Buddhism itself and supposedly subjugated by the guardians of the faith.

jumbesi

The arrival at Jumbesi was something to remenber, the small hamlet is situated in a lush green valley, itself the starting point for numerous treks in the region, namely to monasteries and Buddhist villages. Unfortunately, it was covered by heavy clouds and I remenber it surrounded by at least one high snow peaks.

INDIA

Himachal Pradesh - Parvati Valley

I have walked fifteen kilometres from Varshani-Pulga along the Parvati River. There was snow on the opposite slopes. The objective was Khirganga but I was told there were two to three feet of snow on the way, and I didn’t felt to be able to do this route alone. So I went back to Manikaran, through tiny villages like Ruskatar or Raskar and Sangnar. On the other side of the valley, Pulga and other villages looked untouchable under the snow.

Incantations

So I entered the temple, at the time one saddhu was ringing the entrance bell for Puja, while others were ringing more bells, beating Shiva’s drums and blowing horns. In this rather trance-like and mystic moment appeared a vision in the steamy fog of the hot waters, the saddhus were reciting mantras in the cold night and the silhouettes danced and moved appealing, venerating and saluting His presence.

The narrow path

The road is full of dangers but providence stands above us playing with our fragile and arrogant lives, guiding our souls through this narrow path and offering us clemency from time to time. Though it is wiser to follow carefully and bewared. Nevertheless of all obstacles and physical suffering, the arrival is pure and transparent as a natural spring.



All this light and infinite sensation of space and greatness are the well-earned reward of this journey, the “leit motiv” repeating, echoing endlessly in our minds like a mantra.

Darth - Bijli Mahadev

I caught a bus at Akhara in Kullu, heading to Chansari, and thence I climbed through the stairway to Darth village. Two kilometres that looked like ten, I went breathless a few times and my heart was beating very fast and franticly out of control. So I completely stopped and waited for a while to recover balance. I had no other way than to stop, I was feeling completely paralysed.

I don’t know what is the exact altitude of Bijli Mahadev, some say 2460m high others 1950m. But there’s no other peak that high near Mathan. From the Shiva’s Temple, one can see the Parvati Valley in all its splendour as well as Ghansa Valley, and from Bhuntar to Bajaura. The high peaks in Manali’s direction looked quite far and very impressive, even from this distance. My eyes have never looked so far and so deeply into the distant horizon.

Malana and Khirganga are not to be forgotten.

Bijli Mahadev must be 2460m high, another map of Himachal Pradesh gives this altitude.

Baikhali

Today I reached the small village of Baikhali, right above the city of Kullu. The Jagarnathi Maha Temple is a fine place and so is the village. The temple, 500 years old, harbours delicious paintings about many aspects of Dhurga, according to my guide book, and disposed in such a way that they remind me of modern comic books. A few bells hang from the ceiling, the paintings show tigers, elephants, peaceful mountains’ life scenes, but also death and blood, gods and goddesses on tigers fighting terrible daemons, and a king ordering to kill a monster with high Himalayas snow peaks in the background.

People offered me a tea at the temple and then after, I went back to Kullu by a two kilometres long path down the mountain, which I took one hour to complete, my backpack slowed me down a lot. As I am not used to trek, I was feeling nervous about it which made my feet insecure, but everything went fine.

Strange things happen to me when I enter temples. Not dangerous ones but probably jokes from the gods, like sliding in front of Shiva’s image, or loosing my walking balance. At Bijli Mahadev, the back of my head hit the wooden low roof just after I bowed and rang the bell. At Pathli Khul, near Nagar, I slid in the mud in front of a peculiar two to three meters high statue of Shiva. These are different skies and so others are their ruling gods, caution is to be taken.

ÍNDIA

Himachal Pradesh - O Vale de Parvati

Caminhei quinze quilómetros de Varshani-Pulga ao longo do rio Parvati. Havia neve nas encostas do outro lado. O objectivo era Khirganga mas disseram-me que havia entre 60 a 90 cm de neve no caminho, e não me senti capaz de fazer esta rota sozinho. Por isso voltei para Manikaran, por aldeias minúsculas como Ruskatar ou Raskar ou Sangnar. Do outro lado do vale, Pulga e outras aldeias pareciam intocáveis debaixo da neve.

Incantações

Então entrei no templo, nesse momento estava um sadú, um desses homens santo indianos, a tocar o sino da entrada para o Puja, a prece, enquanto outros tocavam mais sinos, batiam nos tambores de Xiva e sopravam em chifres. Neste bastante místico momento próximo da transe colectiva, apareceu uma visão no fumo e no nevoeiro que pairava por cima das águas quentes, os sadús estavam a recitar mantras na noite fria e as silhuetas dançavam e mexiam, apelando, venerando e saudando a presença do deus.

O trilho estreito

A estrada está repleta de perigos mas a providência permanece por cima de nós brincando com as nossas frágeis e arrogantes vidas, guiando as nossas almas por este trilho estreito, e oferecendo-nos clemência de tempo a tempo. Será por isso mais ajuízado prosseguir com cuidado e atento. Apesar de todos os obstáculos e de todo o sofrimento físico, a chegada é pura e transparente semelhante a uma nascente natural.



Toda esta luz e infinita sensação de espaço e grandeza são a merecida recompensa desta viagem, o “leit motiv” que se repete, que ecoa incessantemente nas nossas mentes como um mantra.

Darth – Bijli Mahadev

Apanhei um autocarro para Akhara em Kulu, com destino para Chansari, e daí subi pelos degraus de pedra até a aldeia de Darth. Dois quilómetros que pareceram dez, fiquei sem folgo várias vezes, e o meu coração batia muito rapidamente e freneticamente, completamente fora de controlo. Por isso parei completamente e esperei um bocado a fim de recuperar balanço. Aliás não tinha outra hipótese, fiquei como paralisado.

Não sei qual é a altitude exacta de Bijli Mahadev, alguns dizem 2490m, outros 1950m. Mas não há cume tão alto perto de Mathan. Do templo de Xiva, consegue-se ver o Vale de Parvati em todo o seu esplendor, assim como o Vale de Ghansa, e de Bhuntar até Bajaura. Os altos cumes na direcção de Manali pareciam bastante distantes e muito impressionantes, mesmo desta distância. Os meus olhos nunca viram tão longe e tão profundamente para dentro do horizonte distante.

Malana e Khirganga não são de esquecer.

Bijli Mahadev deve ficar a 2460m de altura, outro mapa indica a mesma altitude.

Baikhali

Hoje atingi a pequena aldeia de Bhaikali, mesmo por cima da cidade de kulu. O templo de Jagarnathi Maha é um lugar agradável assim como a aldeia. O templo, de 500 anos, abriga interessantes pinturas sobre vários aspectos de Dhurga, como o refere o meu livro, e estão de tal maneira feitas que fazem lembrar livros de banda desenhada actuais. Alguns sinos perduram-se no tecto, as pinturas mostram tigres, elefantes, cenas pacíficas da vida nas montanhas, mas também morte e sangue, deuses e deusas sobre tigres, lutando terríveis demónios, e um rei ordenando a morte de um monstro, com os altos cumes dos Himalayas como fundo.

Ofereceram-me um chá no templo e depois, voltei para Kulú por um trilho de dois quilómetros de comprimento pela montanha abaixo, que me levou uma hora para completar, a minha mochila atrasou-me bastante. Como não estou habituado a caminhar nas montanhas, fiquei nervoso o que tornou o meu passo inseguro.

Coisas estranhas acontecem-me quando entro em templos. Não são coisas perigosas mas provavelmente sejam piadas dos deuses. Coisas como escorregar em frente da imagem do deus Xiva, ou perder o meu equilíbrio. Em Bijli Mahadev, a parte de trás da minha cabeça bateu no telhado baixo de madeira mesmo depois de me inclinar e ter tocado no sino. Em Pathli Khul, perto de Nagar, escorreguei na lama em frente de uma peculiar estátua de dois metros de altura. Estes são céus diferentes, e outros são os deuses que os regem, toda a prudência é necessária.